When you think of Tokyo, you probably picture towering skyscrapers, neon signs, and various modern technologies. But hidden within this bustling city are neighborhoods where the spirit of Old Edo (historic Tokyo) is very much alive – the Shitamachi areas. Join me as I delve into these charming districts, where history, culture, and community blend to offer a distinctive and enriching living experience in Tokyo.
What is Shitamachi?
Shitamachi, literally “lower town,” refers to the flat, low-lying areas of Tokyo that developed as commercial and artisan districts during the Edo period. These areas were historically inhabited by merchants and craftsmen, while the higher grounds (Yamanote) were home to samurai and aristocrats. The term “Shitamachi” has since come to symbolize the heart and soul of Tokyo’s common folk, known for their warmth, resilience, and vibrant community spirit.
The boundaries of Shitamachi are somewhat fluid, but it generally includes the wards of Adachi, Katsushika, Arakawa, Taito, Sumida, Koto, and Edogawa. Parts of Chiyoda and Chuo wards also fall into this category. These neighborhoods retain the “Edokko” (native Tokyoite) spirit and craftsman ethos, making them unique and endearing.
For those unfamiliar with these areas, you might recognize the essence of Shitamachi from popular works such as the manga “Kochira Katsushika-ku Kameari Koen-mae Hashutsujo,” the novel “Shitamachi Rocket,” or the film “Always: Sunset on Third Street.” These stories capture the nostalgic and lively atmosphere of Shitamachi.
Recommended Spots in Shitamachi
While Tokyo’s Shitamachi offers a contrast to the bustling cityscape, each area has its own distinct charm. Here are some must-visit spots to experience the true essence of Shitamachi:
1. Kanda (Chiyoda Ward)
Situated between Tokyo Station and Akihabara, Kanda is often referred to as “Salaryman Heaven” due to its abundance of izakayas (Japanese pubs) frequented by office workers. The area comes alive in the evening as workers from nearby business districts gather to unwind.
A highlight of Kanda is the Kanda Myojin Shrine, a historic site dating back around 1,300 years. The shrine enshrines deities such as Daikokuten and Ebisu, known for bringing good fortune and prosperity in business, as well as Taira no Masakado. Kanda Myojin has played a vital role as the guardian of Edo (now Tokyo) since the Edo period, and today it is revered by the local community, including business hubs like Nihonbashi and Akihabara. The shrine’s collaboration with popular anime, such as “Love Live!,” attracts numerous visitors daily.
2. Asakusa (Taito Ward)
Asakusa has flourished as the gateway to Senso-ji Temple since ancient times. This area was the center of Edo’s popular culture, thriving as a temple town during the Edo period. Today, Asakusa retains its historical charm and is one of Tokyo’s most beloved Shitamachi neighborhoods, cherished by both locals and tourists.
The iconic Senso-ji Temple, with its 1,400-year history, stands as Tokyo’s oldest temple and a major tourist attraction. The approach to the temple, Nakamise Street, is one of Japan’s oldest shopping streets, offering a variety of traditional snacks and souvenirs.
For a unique perspective of Asakusa, consider taking a ride on the Sumida River Water Bus, also known as TOKYO CRUISE. This boat cruise connects Asakusa with destinations such as Hamarikyu Gardens, Odaiba Seaside Park, and Toyosu. Enjoy the scenic views of Asakusa, Tokyo Skytree, and other landmarks from the water. The cruise takes about an hour, making it a perfect summer activity.
3. Ueno (Taito Ward)
Before the extension of the Tohoku and Joetsu Shinkansen lines to Tokyo Station in 1991, Ueno served as the gateway to Tokyo. Ueno uniquely blends the Yamanote and Shitamachi areas, offering a rich cultural experience.
The Yamanote area of Ueno is home to Ueno Park, Ueno Zoo, and several cultural institutions such as the Tokyo National Museum and the National Museum of Western Art. The latter, designed by the renowned architect Le Corbusier, showcases the impressive collection of industrialist Kojiro Matsukata and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In contrast, the Shitamachi area features Ameyoko (Ameya Yokocho), a bustling market street lined with shops selling everything from fresh produce to clothing. This vibrant market captures the lively spirit of Shitamachi and is a must-visit for anyone exploring Ueno.
4. Tsukishima (Chuo Ward)
Tsukishima has undergone significant redevelopment, transforming into a highly desirable residential area with numerous high-rise apartments. Despite its modern facade, Tsukishima retains its Shitamachi roots, particularly along Monja Street, famous for its monjayaki restaurants.
Monjayaki, a savory pancake similar to okonomiyaki, is a beloved local dish. The street offers a variety of monjayaki establishments, each with its own unique twist on the traditional recipe. Exploring Monja Street and sampling different versions of this dish is a delightful way to experience Tsukishima’s Shitamachi charm.
5. Oshiage (Sumida Ward)
Since the opening of Tokyo Skytree in 2012, Oshiage has gained fame as “Skytree Town.” This area has rapidly developed into a popular tourist destination while still preserving its Shitamachi character.
Tokyo Skytree, standing at 634 meters, is the world’s tallest freestanding broadcasting tower. Its observation decks at 350 meters and 450 meters offer breathtaking panoramic views of Tokyo. Skytree has become a symbol of Tokyo, alongside the iconic Tokyo Tower.
Within Tokyo Skytree Town, you’ll find Tokyo Solamachi, a shopping complex featuring a wide range of dining, shopping, and entertainment options, including a planetarium. The Sumida Aquarium, also located here, is perfect for family outings and dates, showcasing around 260 species and 5,000 marine creatures. The Tokyo Bay Aquarium’s deep-sea exhibit is a must-see attraction.
Conclusion
Tokyo is often seen as a city of futuristic advancements and towering skyscrapers, but it also holds a treasure trove of nostalgic, retro charm in its Shitamachi areas. Each neighborhood offers a distinct atmosphere, rich in history and culture, making them perfect for leisurely explorations. Embrace the spirit of Old Edo by visiting these Shitamachi spots and experience a side of Tokyo that is both timeless and heartwarming.
